Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola are moving away from their “no-gender” silhouettes to something a bit more defined. “We realized that commercially it could prove a little difficult,” Kaczmarek said backstage. “But we still switch from one wardrobe to another to create our looks. It’s a no-brainer for us.”

As a result, the women’s silhouettes in particular were elevated by couture details such as bodices, high waists and full skirts. It was still essentially streetwear: The duo looked to Parisian daily life and what people actually wear to hit the streets to create their collection. The clothes came in a dominantly gray palette, inspired by a stormy day hanging over the French capital.

The label’s collaboration with outerwear brand K-Way was taken to unexpected levels. A sleek black rain jacket was worn under a spaghetti-strap dress with a billowing skirt, while a male model sported a pair of K-Way nylon combat trousers with zips around the ankles. Boys wore Converse, while girls tottered down the stairs to the runway in transparent plastic heels created in collaboration with Arcosanti.

Eighty percent of the collection was created with deadstock material, leading to a wide variety of fabrics: a pair of men’s jeans had one dark blue leg and one gray one, a shiny technical top was paired with soft velvet pants and elastic cables were stretched over tailored suits and dangled from waists or sleeves. “We take anything we can get our hands on, deform it and create new volumes,” said Kaczmarek, who described the collection as “near future, but not futuristic.” “Every meter of fabric has always counted for us.”

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