Alexis Mabille’s fall lineup was on point. For his international clientele, an on-the-go, jet-set crowd, he delivered a tightly focused collection of bright and chic dresses and super fancy trouser ensembles, just as the trends swing toward dressy.
“It’s a bit unfashionable to speak of cocktail dresses…but we work as delicately in this collection as we do with haute couture — even if it’s not haute couture, it’s infused with the spirit of haute couture,” he said.
To drive home the message, the photo shoot took place in a workshop, where his friend Audrey Marnay modeled the clothing in front of bolts of fabric that sat in piles, towering above her.
He stuck mostly to monochrome looks in flamboyant greens, pinks, blues and yellows, contrasting the sleekness of satin with a more matte texture. In some cases, he used reversible material, playing with folds to reveal the satiny underside — on a short, emerald green dress, in one instance. His trademark knots and bows were applied with restraint, adding volume to a white bustier, or as small, decorative touch on a flowing, bright pink dress.
A bold pair of gold trousers was paired with one of his signature, wide-collared bolero — a cropped jacket that could also be worn as a scarf.
The fabrics had heft and stretch, and would could hold their shape, rolled up in a suitcase, he asserted. Always interested in versatility, Mabille also offered sweeping capes that could cover the shoulders or be left hanging in a loop, as an accent on the back.
He used a fabric of the kind used in the Fifties, remade with added stretch, improving the comfort of a corset. “So you can eat — which is not an unpleasant thing,” he laughed.