Jewel tones made an appearance on the Ann Demeulemeester runway, quite a surprise for a brand known for its essentially monochrome silhouettes.
For fall, Sébastien Meunier delivered his signature romantic blouses and trailing skirts in ruby red, dusty rose, silky lime and even a pop of zany violet. These rich colors showcased the fabric treatments better than on the regular black-and-white silhouettes: silk brocade looked chic on tomato red trousers, while a vermilion dévoré gave a bit of texture to a long sleeveless waistcoat.
It was an ethereal collection — light silk dresses floated along the runway, hems on chiffon skirts trailed along the ground — but it had a definite edge: feathers on plastrons looked sharp, more like a shamanic talisman warding off evil than an elegant plumage, and flowing silk dresses were worn with elbow-length leather gloves. Bells tinkled as the models walked by, sewn onto straps dangling around necks and along trouser legs.
For all their airiness, the looks were surprisingly grounded: Models had their feet firmly planted in lace-up leather boots and hoods peeked out of jackets and coats. It was one of Meunier’s most refreshing efforts as creative director of the Belgian brand.