Jewel tones made an appearance on the Ann Demeulemeester runway, quite a surprise for a brand known for its essentially monochrome silhouettes.

For fall, Sébastien Meunier delivered his signature romantic blouses and trailing skirts in ruby red, dusty rose, silky lime and even a pop of zany violet. These rich colors showcased the fabric treatments better than on the regular black-and-white silhouettes: silk brocade looked chic on tomato red trousers, while a vermilion dévoré gave a bit of texture to a long sleeveless waistcoat.

It was an ethereal collection — light silk dresses floated along the runway, hems on chiffon skirts trailed along the ground — but it had a definite edge: feathers on plastrons looked sharp, more like a shamanic talisman warding off evil than an elegant plumage, and flowing silk dresses were worn with elbow-length leather gloves. Bells tinkled as the models walked by, sewn onto straps dangling around necks and along trouser legs.

For all their airiness, the looks were surprisingly grounded: Models had their feet firmly planted in lace-up leather boots and hoods peeked out of jackets and coats. It was one of Meunier’s most refreshing efforts as creative director of the Belgian brand.

By  on February 28, 2019

Jewel tones made an appearance on the Ann Demeulemeester runway, quite a surprise for a brand known for its essentially monochrome silhouettes.

For fall, Sébastien Meunier delivered his signature romantic blouses and trailing skirts in ruby red, dusty rose, silky lime and even a pop of zany violet. These rich colors showcased the fabric treatments better than on the regular black-and-white silhouettes: silk brocade looked chic on tomato red trousers, while a vermilion dévoré gave a bit of texture to a long sleeveless waistcoat.

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