Paraded to the sound of a beating heart, Hidenori Kumakiri’s collection was an ode to all the things we forget to pay attention to. For one, the blood pumping through our veins: floral patterns inspired by the human circulatory system snaked from dresses to actual skin, transferring onto the models’ necks and arms. Thin chains were worn under semitransparent knits, becoming mere hints of jewelry.
Also neglected: the space between the lining and the fabric in garment construction. “By bringing attention to this spot, which is usually ignored, something new is born,” explained the Japanese designer. Suit linings were worn on the outside, getting their moment of glory at last: They were turned into a chic black high-waisted skirt with buttons running down its side and a waistcoat worn back to front, the back buckle perching on the model’s abdomen.
Natural fabrics were given center stage. There were linen pieces, such as a cream blanket transformed into a swishing skirt, as well as long wool coats with interesting button patterns. Looks mainly came in brown, black, white and light orange. It was an understated collection that required focused attention to grasp its subtleties, as is usually the case with Kumakiri’s creations. The viewer left the show pensive, vowing to slow down and notice the little things.