Having cycled through a number of formats and creative directors in the last few years, Capucci is banking on an injection of youth to restore the brand to the glory days of its founder, Roberto Capucci.
The label’s owner, businesswoman and art patron, Paola Santarelli, has appointed her daughter, Vittoria Bonifati, as artistic coordinator, with Valeria Giampietro as art director. They, in turn, have drafted Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi, the “It” girls behind the handbag label TL-180, to refresh the brand.
Staging a presentation in Paris for the first time, Capucci unveiled a capsule collection based on the more wearable portions of its archive. The couturier, now 88, has been a friend of the Santarellis for decades.
“He was very close with my grandmother and my mother. My mom’s wedding dress was designed by him, and also my grandmother had a lot of clothes designed by him, so I’ve known him for quite a bit, and he comes still to the atelier. He has some clients and makes haute couture,” Bonifati said.
A tunic top and cropped flared pants featured subtle black-and-white Op Art stripes that were stitched together from dozens of fine strips of fabric. A collarless coat with a scalloped edge came in a patchwork of pink taffeta, while a plain plum velvet robe coat projected a laid-back, yet opulent cool.
“We’ve been working on this collection with the tailors that work with Roberto still,” said Bonifati, a curator who trained at the Royal College of Art in London. “Because for us it was very important to create a bridge between the haute couture and the ready-to-wear.”
Further emphasizing the close links between Capucci and its new owners, the look book for the collection was shot against the dreamy backdrop of the Villa Lontana, Santarelli’s home in Rome.