A former fashion director for Japanese concept store United Arrows, Keiko Onose has chosen to eschew seasonal inspirations for the collections she creates for Cyclas, the ready-to-wear brand she founded in 2016.
“Gerhard Richter’s paintings are a continuous inspiration for me,” the designer said backstage about the German artist’s “Abstract Paintings” series, which were already a starting point for last season’s collection. Hints of his work were found on a printed coatdress worn over trousers: “It’s a flower print, but I tried to make it look destroyed, like it’s been crashed or hammered,” Onose said.
Other than the printed silhouette, the color palette for the fall 2019 show — the brand’s first on the official calendar — was a muted mix of khaki, light sage, beige and gray, with bright accents delivered by kooky sequined flats. The clashes came in the form of contrasting textures: an ivory pleated organza apron was tied over crisp cotton trousers, a lamé skirt was paired with a knitted top, and chubby faux fur coats were worn over high-waisted corduroy trousers.
It was quite a cerebral collection: minute details, such as hand stitches replacing traditional seams on a voluminous cream top, were only visible up close — on the runway, it looked unremarkable. These clothes aren’t showstoppers, but meant to be browsed through at a leisurely pace in a well-lit boutique.