“I’ve been experimenting with different things over the past two collections and here I wanted to go back to my favorite iconic clothes — it’s very me,” Isabel Marant said backstage.
Too right: the designer stayed true to her signature tomboy/boho/disco aesthetic in a collection that, while low on surprise factor, was filled with crowd-pleasers. Rather than coming across as a lack of inspiration, it felt more — with her solid growth and beauty line under her belt — like she’s hit cruising speed. Focusing on her bread and butter, as a designer who has never needed to follow trends, makes business sense.
Wrap dresses were among the key pieces, with a military influence coming through in the casual cargo pants, wool shirts, outerwear — always with Eighties volumes — and in the palette, all beige and khaki tones.
The designer moved between looks that were more casual and rustic in mood, like the chunky revisited cable knits and shaggy vests, and sexy disco pieces like glittery knitwear, scrunchy high boots, and draped skirts. Sudded black leather, strong shoulders and dramatic volume on the sleeves heightened the grooviness.
A high, defined waist kept things feminine, as on pleated pants worn with big western-inspired belts. Bohemian florals and American quilt-inspired fabrics with a Santa Fe vibe, also softening the mood. The latter was used on an asymmetric blouse top, but also revisited as a print on fetching dresses which figured among the high-potential till ringers.