Narrowing her palette and patterns — no floral prints, mostly autumn colors — and opting for sleeker cuts, Johanna Oritz took a turn toward more serious ground.

It was a welcome evolution — the sobriety brought better focus, without betraying the label’s fans, who like it fancy. Ruffled sleeves and flouncy skirts looked chic on monotone outfits in military green or rust, as well as an airy pink and black checked chiffon dress. Tropical toile de Jouy prints were kept unstuffy, thanks to the hues — chocolate printed on ivory, or burgundy on a silky copper.

Accessories served to further anchor the fanciful, knotted cord belts and handbags, as well as a side purse that resembled a flask. This was the jungle — on Rue de Varenne, anyway, the French capital’s equivalent of embassy row — and guests sat on vintage sofas sipping Champagne in a room stocked with palm trees on a seagrass carpet.

load comments