In a contrast to the stark, rock-infused lineup that Karl Lagerfeld offered for fall — his last collection for his namesake label — was a romantic orchid print. It was one of the few splashes of color amid the mostly black-and-white palette, a dusty rose with the flowers printed in pale shades of gray, his name discretely stamped in white lettering among them.
Much of the rest of the collection was about arming women, which was done with sexy, leather biker pants, a Lurex-infused suit jacket with hardware — the embellishment was a row of tiny hooks — and sharp-angled leather panels that firmed up a smart coat.
An emphasis on outerwear included puffers in black velvet or ultra-light with a futuristic shine. Also on offer: a reflective parka and, for a dressier option, cozy, belted wool coats — reversible with checks or stripes.
On the rack of Carine Roitfeld’s “essential pieces” was a short, hooded coat in black-and-white faux fur — the white parts were his name splashed in diagonal letters.
The collaboration with Olivia Palermo included a pair of tweed shorts — her design — as well as T-shirts featuring silhouettes of the influencer and Lagerfeld, both wearing ponytails and drawn out in crystal studs. Also on Palermo’s rack: a loose, black tuxedo suit, with tiny Lagerfeld images built into the weave, noticeable only upon close inspection.
Folks at the label spoke of continuing with what has been built so far; the owners are mostly specialists in the sector, including GIII-Apparel Group, PVH Corp., Fred Gehring and private equity firm Apax Partners.
For fans mourning the designer’s passing, amid the profusion of the brand’s signature logos and labels there was also a message, scrawled in white paint on the back of a leather jacket: Karl loves me.