Alienation is the common thread that runs through Léa Dickely and Hung La’s collections with their acerbic, uncompromising esthetic. Staging their first runway presentation this season in a cavernous garage space, they played on the convention of dressing to blend in — inspired by manuals offering advice for Stasi agents on how to go incognito — spiked with jarring moments of look-at-me bravado.

Beige and brown tailoring provided the uniform backdrop in the form of voluminous trench coats, tailored jackets, wide flared pants and baggy masculine shirting with pointy Seventies collars, the concept of status knocked home by styling the looks with Louboutin stilettos.

Dickely and La played on the notion of what is real and what is fake, using leather and rubber interchangeably and challenging the observer to identify which is which on coats, pants and dresses.

Their nonconformism emerged through violent pops of color — bright red, vivid yellow — the latter worked for example as a zebra print or a psychedelic motif on a fitted shirt that once again harked back to the Seventies, an era of predilection for the designers.

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