With a stormy light adding to the special atmosphere, the setting — the École Duperré art school — was perfect for this serene, highly desirable collection with an arty bourgeois vibe.
“We wanted something more intimate this season, and liked the idea of the models passing from atelier to atelier,” said Christophe Lemaire backstage with his sidekick, Sarah-Linh Tran, adding: “The scale is much more human, for people to see the fabrics and subtlety of the colors.”
It was all perfumed with a subtle Seventies spirit, including the pointy collar shirts, long pants with big cuffs and creased denim.
The elongated monochromatic silhouettes were inspired by Surrealist artist Paul Delvaux, with volume plays on the shoulders.
Everything felt cozy, from the marled cable-knit looks to the robust tailoring, which looked comfortable and protective. A tiny monochrome Liberty print was lovely, creating a speckled effect on men’s pants, while a ruched dress in a marble print had frilled sleeves. A high-waisted pant worn with a nude bodysuit had a dancer’s gracefulness, underscoring the feminine mood.