Maison Kitsuné’s display for fall marked numerous firsts. It was the first collection for the house’s first creative director, Yuni Ahn, and the first time the brand presented during Paris Fashion Week, as a guest.

Underlining big ambitions for the house, Maison Kitsuné at the end of 2018 hired Ahn from Celine, where she served as design director under Phoebe Philo. Also last year, it secured a second round of funding from Stripe International, a minority shareholder that in 2016 had made its first cash infusion in Maison Kitsuné.

“We are developing and growing the brand,” said Gildas Loaëc, a cofounder of Maison Kitsuné, at the presentation. “It’s a new era for us.”

He believes the house is being upgraded with Ahn’s savoir-faire and described her designs as being sharper. “We’re more precise [and so] get to talk to a more grown-up demographic with this collection,” he said.

Ahn explained the fall line’s inspiration came from Maison Kitsuné’s musical heritage. (Loaëc has been a music producer and a former manager of Daft Punk.) “For me, playing with the genderless vibe has been really interesting, and it was a strong point I wanted to convey in the way that certain things are put together,” she said.

Ahn added layering was important, too, to show the adaptability of the collection, which was full of muted colors, like beige and brown, and some popping hues mixed in “to keep that clubby vibe.”

A dozen male and female models stood on a stage to show the looks of this coherent, on-trend urban collection strong in outerwear. It included a camel-colored wrap-around jacket, belted at the side and worn over a beige turtleneck and slouchy black trousers, and a brown blazer paired with a taupe-colored athletic top and beige-and-brown trousers lined with snaps.

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