Toni Maticevski upped the focus on tech fabrics, “And seeing how they translate into things that are wearable.”

The attitude stayed dressy, though. Gathered into architectural folds, a gold and silver foil jersey used on gowns was surprisingly light and soft, with foil effects also surfacing on a black wool-cashmere coat. A capsule of black-and-white chiffon evening pieces peppered with high-tech flocking in animal-meets-floral motifs were striking.

The designer broke the mood with a romantic section of dresses, including a long ivory tulle gown with a pleated top and short pale pink skirt embroidered in organic strips of metallics and sequins which lent an artisanal charm.

The pièce de résistance in the handiwork intensive collection was a floor-sweeping pastel gown covered in circular tea-stained ruffles.

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