American dancer Isadora Duncan was the starting point of Mazarine’s fall collection, the third presented as a fashion show for the brand. “We transposed her into a winter setting, imagining her dancing in the gardens of the Hotel Biron, where she used to stay when she came to Paris,” said designer Hélène Timsit, who created the brand in 2015 and joined fashion incubator Designer’s Apartment the same year (the brand is in its final season at the showroom.)
For a collection themed around a dancer, the looks didn’t have much movement, consisting dominantly of boxy jackets and tunics, fitted coats and long straight skirts. However, the twists and turns of Duncan’s moves were suggested with contrasting piping on a tomato-red jacket or swirling waves on long strappy dresses, while one-shouldered tops and spherical openings around navels and on backs hinted at stage costumes.
Some of the looks were finely pleated, in reference to Mariano Fortuny’s plissé technique. “His dresses were very popular at the beginning of the 19th century, and Isadora wore them a lot,” Timsit explained, adding that the plissé for this collection was done in a blend of silk and polyester. It looked chic on a beige jacket and brick-hued dress, but was particularly interesting on a long-sleeved mauve minidress, the short hem and high neckline bunching out like a flower corolla.