As the first show to be held in Olivier Theyskens’ new digs — the storied Hôtel de Bourrienne, a townhouse from the Directory period, still under renovation — the dark romanticism that the designer is best known for came home to roost.
The “Bladerunner” soundtrack gave it away, with a feminine Forties flavor coming through in the tailored skirt suits with defined waists and strong sculpted shoulders channeling the wardrobe of the film’s protagonist, Rachael. One was all tweed at the front and black leather at the back.
A sweet overhang from his Rochas days surfaced in the lingerie dresses in all variety of shapes, from pencil to flared, with wiring and bra cup constructions, while the high-waisted large pants and dresses with slits and cutouts at the waist oozed Hollywood glamour, always leaning towards the dark side in black and red satins, with mutton sleeves and long cuffs. A dress in a searing shade of neon pink added an unexpected jolt.
The finale looks incorporated velvet and jet mourning jewelry — a new category for the designer who also bulked up his footwear offering, including towering satin platform heels that enhanced the elongated nature of the silhouettes. They evoked glamorous widows, culminating in dramatic goth ballgowns with bustier constructions and hook closures that recalled the designer’s Madonna moment and underscored the “greatest hits” vibe of the show.