Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient doubled down on draping techniques to remake familiar pieces, yielding a sci-fi-infused lineup that was vigorous and sexy. Their game is one of subversion and the pair is known for sending traditional Swiss, mountain references like edelweiss flower patterns and laced bodices off on a psychedelic jaunt.
No flowers this season — fall is about knits — and a series of chunky weaves kicked off the show, setting a grungy tone: short skirts and tops in lime green, orange and black, with a bulging, oversize sleeves and strappy skin-baring shoulders. Exuberant patches of frayed tufts ran up and down some pieces. Chanel-flavored tweed sets were not an homage to Karl Lagerfeld — they had been designed well in advance of his passing — but with the late designer on everyone’s minds, the question came up backstage.
The pair works on the premise that beauty comes from the unexpected. “It’s always about treatment, more than destruction, maybe,” Gadient offered.
A tangle with high performance ski jackets — in technical fabrics — turned up some of the sexiest pieces, tucked closely at the waist, while added zippers highlighted body curves. A profusion of bared midriffs and thigh-high leggings brought further sensuality, offering flashes of skin among the piles of piles of fabric. An ultra thin, silvery fabric was scrunched and matted to form the bustier of a dress, the skirt trailing off to one side. The jackets for their trademark denim sets also came slightly skewed, and frayed at the bottom.