Stumbling on a book about old-world couture sewing techniques added a new dimension to Canadian designer Sid Neigum’s mathematical equation on fashion design for fall.

Techniques like cartridge pleating and boning provided both structural and decorative elements to the collection, the former used to create a bodice worn over a cutaway dress or to adorn the sleeves of a T-shirt in tone-on-tone black, the latter sewn into the cocoon-shaped sleeves of a lilac wrap top to hold its pleats in place.

Chunky 3-D ribbed knits in black and cream echoed Neigum’s architectural lines while suggesting ease and comfort. He counterbalanced into 21st-century territory through the use of technical fabrics, for example, playing with bonded crushed velvet to add weight to several looks, like a long, halter-neck dress. The futuristic touch was most striking when it came to a bonded wool fabric with a light-activated reflective coating that gave a holographic purple sheen to a mid-length tailored coat and skirt suit.

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