Zuhair Murad turned to Japan for his female warrior this season, where he found the onna-bugeisha — a noble woman who fought alongside the samurai.
True to the house, armour for his modern-day soldier was very feminine, crafted out of vertical strips of leather with small studs — skirts came long or short, as well as a fur coat — in red, with rows of fur in tufts.
Murad always includes more romantic pieces in his mix. In another Japanese reference, he reworked the kimono, which he transformed into a long, handsome wrap dress, the patterns delineated in burgundy velvet devoré. It was clearly one of his best efforts — the most elegant, for sure — with this material, which has proved one of this season’s “musts.”
Working a stylized crane in bright, shiny colors onto sharp-heeled boots, the designer added a dose of the glam rock that suited his last collection so well.
Fancy black jacquard dresses and coats also carried Japanese-flavored flower patterns, in a palette of deep reds and steely blues, and infused with Lurex; the patterns were also applied with sequins, including a suit jacket.
It was another ornate, feminine and very chic lineup from the label; Murad, through and through.