Name: Dressedundressed

Main message: Takeshi Kitazawa’s spring presentation was part runway show, part performance art, with models emerging on the runway in pairs before engaging in various interactions in front of a simple set: drinking a cup of water, swapping jackets, cutting open a feather pillow, or one presenting the other with a piece of paper on which was written “do something boring.” All this took place to a voiceover soundtrack of men describing their dreams, but the significance of it all was not immediately clear.

Kitazawa sent out tailored or wide-leg trousers with high waists together with tiny cropped tops and jackets. There were shirts with sheer chest panels, bandage tube tops, tailored coats, a leather biker jacket and trench, and suit jackets with key fobs safety pinned to them. Many looks were pantless, instead including only a pair of briefs or a bodysuit. As with most of Dressedundressed’s collections, everything was unisex and in neutral shades of black, white and beige. Half of the models wore black masks with silver eyelets to see through, which together with belts worn on wrists, gave the offering slight BDSM undertones.

The result: The clothes were well cut and there was some interesting proportion play, but the collection allowed itself to be overshadowed by the unconventional staging.

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