Main message: What do you get when you mix sharp tailoring and a wide range of textures with subtle bondage influences? Keisuke Yoshida’s latest offering, which was shown on a slick red runway with stairs in the center and models all with bandaged heads. A short suit with an oversize, double-breasted jacket was worn over pleather leggings punctuated with cutouts and buckles, while slinky dresses in headline printed mesh or lamé jersey were gathered all over for a balance of sexy and conservative.
There were structural elements as well, with tails of coats clipped to the backs of collars to create a vague origami effect, and sleeves that were either ballooned and extra long or topped with boned shoulder plates rivaling a football player’s padding. High-wasted pants with rows of rope fastened with toggles were paired with satin blouses trimmed in exaggerated Western-inspired yokes.
The result: Yoshida’s collection was just fantastical enough to find itself at home on the streets of Tokyo, without taking itself too seriously.