Y’s hasn’t held a fashion show in Tokyo in five years, and this season it came back with a bang, staging back-to-back shows in different venues within the same building. The first featured its Bang On! line of genderless, timeless pieces. Created by a team of designers, the collection centered around 15 different coats in five styles, from thick wool offerings with contrasting rope trailing off of them to military-inspired styles lined in faux fur. The silhouettes were oversize but clean, and the substantial fabrics contrasted with the more fluid pants and shirts worn underneath. Details such as asymmetric hems and long, uncut threads made it clear where the brand’s roots lie.
In a second, larger show, Y’s presented its capsule collection designed using materials from the Italian firm Alcantara, which is owned by Japanese textile giant Toray Industries. Tailored jackets, relaxed-fit trousers and long coats were cut from a gleaming metallic silver material, sueded textiles, and a fabric with a texture that resembled crumpled up paper. But while the materials added interest to the collection, it was how they were used in garments that really brought them to life. Thicker fabrics such as faux leather were used in boxy, structured coats, while a tissue-thin, slightly sheer material was used in a scarf-like slipdress that billowed gently with movement.
The collection showed a mix of outdoor influences and space-age glamour, with high-waisted hunting pants sharing the runway with trench coats in a foil-like vinyl. But aside from some subtle asymmetric details, the shapes were simple enough that the contrasting textures and colors did more to complement each other than they did to compete.