There were plenty of references in Natalia Alaverdian’s mind while conceiving this collection: “a little bit of aerobics, but with a Soviet spin, sci-fi… touches of Eighties, Seventies and Sixties that at the end all blend in,” she mentioned along with cinematic influences ranging from Ridley Scott’s “Alien” to Wes Anderson’s “The Royal Tenenbaums.” It’s no easy task to balance such a spectrum, and Alaverdian fell in the the trap of overdoing it.
The extensive lineup kicked off with her signature sharp, deconstructed tailoring and pleated structures. Zebra patterns and sequins popping up underneath suits and trench coats were fresh additions, while pleated lamé draping evoked the space theme with subtlety. But it all quickly escalated in a hodgepodge of elements: combinations of vintage-inspired track tops with checkered skirts and pants, cut-out tech options with corduroy pants, oversized quilted coats in bright colors and a holographic coat with a paper-like feel. It all appeared forced and, at times, uncomfortable.
WWD Critique: The collection set out to command attention but ending up disorienting instead.