This was a tale of two collections: Lovely leather pieces, outerwear and knits shared a runway with sheer, skintight printed trousers and flimsy dresses that resembled scraps of fabric. There is no doubt that Alexandre Arsenault and Charlotte Knowles are dab hands at design, but the whole underwear-as-outerwear aesthetic is tricky territory as it can look cheap, sleazy and unflattering. The stylish standouts here were a slim, cognac-colored leather corset; a cropped shearling jacket; a short and sweet knitted cape with little tassels and a mauve sweater slashed at the bottom. The long and curvy belted plaid coat that closed the show was another winner.

WWD Critique: If these designers want to become more commercial and reach a bigger audience, as they have said, then they should pour their energies into the outerwear, and leave the innerwear where it belongs, in the boudoir.

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