“It was saucy knickers, that’s what it was, let’s be honest,” Christopher Kane said of the starting point of his fall 2020 collection.
Ever the provocateur, Kane began his design process by playing around with lingerie. The triangular shapes that define the scantiest of panties sparked his imagination and got him thinking about the story of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden as “a love triangle between man, woman and nature,” as well as ancient symbolisms of the triangle as the eye of God looking over the universe. “It has this amazing, menacing, devilish point to it,” the designer mused.
He lined up triangles into geometric patterns for satin coats, made triangular cutouts on structured midi dresses, and added triangle-shaped patent leather panels on oversized knits and crisp white shirts.
There was nothing “menacing” here and — save for the gospel-like sounds of the “Garden of Eden,” a Fifties song by the British singer and producer Dick James — you would never know about the stories of perversion and the supernatural underlying the collection. Instead, the clothes had a polished, austere feel and a heftier dose of practicality, too, from cozy knit sweaters paired with coordinating skirts to slim tailoring and mannish outerwear.
Kane sprinkled touches of his signature eccentricity here and there, adding extra-large crystal embellishments or colorful gel patches on classic camel coats, little black dresses and cardigans.
The strongest part of the show was when he let his provocative streak run a bit more loose, with pleated dresses featuring cutouts or tops made out of “G-string lace;” chainmail skirts in bright red; sweaters featuring an Adam and Eve illustration, or sparkly velvet and crystal party dresses embellished with extra-large bows. Those were the pieces that highlighted the designer’s point of view in all its perverse, tongue-in-cheek glory.