David Koma staged his fall 2020 show at the Leadenhall building, the same East London skyscraper he picked last season.
This time around he went 42 floors up, though, perhaps a sign of his intention to up the ante, take more risks and “close one chapter and start a new one.”
He did that by paying homage to London, “the city that made his dreams come true,” and by melding new and old ideas in a collection packed with attitude and confidence.
The embellished, body-hugging dresses were familiar, but there was also a wider offer of well-tailored blazers and mannish coats, embellished knits, denim jumpsuits and a heftier dose of accessories that fit right in with his signature evening dresses.
References to London were apparent throughout, from the prints featuring the city’s skyline to the 3-D crystal-embellished minidresses that were shaped like landmark buildings and could double as armor.
What stood out was how Koma was unafraid to play with bad taste, be it the extra-large crystal brooches on a cropped jacket, the corsets layered over T-shirts or the letters hanging off a high slit spelling out London.
It was all exaggerated and in-your-face, capturing the city’s wonderfully eccentric nature.
As his business, which just turned 10, gains steam and big retail partners, this bold outing couldn’t have been better timed.