Up-and-coming designer Eftychia Karamolegkou carved a niche for herself from the get-go, by delivering tight collections of expertly tailored women’s suits.

As her brand gains momentum — she was nominated for the LVMH Prize last year and Phoebe Philo is reportedly a big fan — she is keeping a sharp focus on tailoring and working on refining the details, experimenting with fabrics and building core styles.

For fall 2020, she added notched lapels and hidden pockets on blazers; played with the use of contrasting checks on the seams of trousers, and layered the suits with chunky rib knits and overcoats made using Ventile, a sportier, waterproof fabric. The idea was to offer a comfortable take on tailoring and build a functional wardrobe for the kind of woman who finds herself frequenting airports and doing a lot of business travel — which is why the designer also partnered with Rimowa and had her models carrying the LVMH label’s luxe luggage.

WWD Critique: Karamolegkou’s targeted, niche approach is surely serving her well. She’s cutting through the noise and making her point of view clear, while her commitment to serving the “wearer over the viewer” by pouring all her efforts in perfecting the construction of her garments is refreshing in an age of Instagram brands.

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