The invitation to Phoebe English’s fall 2020 coed collection came with a map indicating the locations of some of London’s prime fashion design studios, including the ones of Simone Rocha and Martine Rose. It was a hint of the fabric project English implemented this season to up the ante of her sustainable game: She asked a dozen studios for their leftover and excess fabric in order to craft her new collection.
It was a compact and convincing range defined by relaxed silhouettes and interesting layering. Reclaimed fabrics stitched together in wobbly patterns gave an edginess to jackets, skirts and pants. Loose pajamas in recovered silks and linens were styled with bras for a touch of sensuality while aprons layered over shirts telegraphed a demure approach. In men’s wear, a diagonal patchwork of different shades of blue interrupted the series of unfussy boxy shirts and wide-leg pants looks.
WWD Critique: English proved how resourceful she is in pushing her creative message forward.