Tommy Now is getting serious — about the environment, waste and even the show format. This latest London outing, a three-way collaboration with Lewis Hamilton and H.E.R., was a lower-key affair than in the past, with no spinning acrobats, disco roller kids or Formula One cars and tires to stroke or pose in front of. There were no selfie-ready backdrops on Sunday night, no pre-show grazing or guzzling like in the past.
Hilfiger and Hamilton, a self-proclaimed animal-lover and vegan, were adamant that this latest see-now-buy-now collection (Hamilton’s fourth for the brand, and H.E.R.’s first) put a focus on values, rather than spectacle. The stripped-back format was meant to shift the focus to all the behind-the-scenes work the brand has been doing, and to spotlight its diversity cred.
“We’re trying to push everything, using modern fabrics — recycled cotton and denim, organic cotton, plant-based fabrics. All our down is vegan, and we just got an award for all the vegan shoes and boots we do,” said Hamilton, adding that up to 75 percent of the collection was sourced more sustainably for spring.
“I wish that we’d met earlier, started this earlier, because we’d be further ahead in the game,” Hamilton added. Inclusivity is another one of his priorities. “This collection is for all ages or genders. It doesn’t matter what ethnicity you are. I’m into really comfortable clothes, too, so that’s what we’ve worked for.”
The show, which took place in the Tanks in the basement of Tate Modern, shrunk the carbon footprint, too. The set was minimal, with neon lights setting the mood — and glow-in-the-dark sneaker laces and track suits opening the show — while singers accompanied by a single steel drum, performed at the beginning and the end.
Some things don’t change though, and an all-star, cross-generational cast of models walked the runway: Naomi Campbell opened the show dressed in a roomy neon yellow and white tracksuit designed by Hamilton and made from plant-based fabric, while Karen Elson, Erin O’Connor, Winnie Harlow, Yasmin LeBon, Jodie Kidd, Jourdan Dunn, Lottie Moss, Lucas Jagger and Luka Sabbat also took part.
Wearing low heels — sneakers, loafers or sandals — they trotted down the runway in a range of styles from street to summery to tailored. Faded denim, oversize navy blazers, pinstripe culotte suits and sailor knits had a preppy, Eighties edge, while breezy silk dresses and long, sweeping cotton ones and hoodies gave off a grunge-y vibe.
There were tracksuits and sweatpants galore, while hoodies and sweaters sweatshirts were adorned with quotes from H.E.R., whose real name is Gabriella Wilson, picked out in sequins.
There’s more sustainability to come, and those hoodies and tracksuits aren’t going anywhere. “Luxe streetwear is exactly where we want to be,” Hilfiger said. “It’s what young people want to wear, and I can’t see it going away.”