Borbonese, a heritage Italian brand, chose to celebrate its 110th anniversary in front of the Duomo. Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena’s third collection for ready-to-wear addition 1910 Borbonese was a muted affair, looking back at the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties to reimagine the Borbonese bourgeois style. Jarvis Cocker-esque sunglasses were perched on the nose of a model wearing an all-white silhouette: a cream polo neck, a matching cashmere coat and an oversize U-shaped leather bag.

“We played around block silhouettes, like total leather or total white, to get the message across,” said Tarantini, pointing to model wearing a dark brown leather shirt with matching flared leather pants, block-heeled sandals and a chocolate brown 110 bag with a gold chain strap, a reinterpretation of Borbonese’s Lady Butterfly bag. Touches of color came in the form of yellow flower prints, inspired by Seventies wallpapers, on the back of a long beige coat and on high-waisted pants.

The beige, camel and dark brown tones had somewhat of a subversive feel — a belted leather coat and high-neck beige shirtdress were very “Belle de Jour,” Luis Buñuel’s tale of an oppressed bourgeoise woman exploring her sexuality. “I feel like this is the real starting point for 1910 Borbonese,” said chief executive officer Alessandro Pescara. “The first collection was to shout at the world that we are coming back; the second explored what we can do; and for this collection we ramped up the Borbonese brand and toned down 1910. We’re trying to get our two different consumers — the Borbonese woman and the 1910 woman — to speak the same language.”

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