Will the real Alberta Ferretti please stand up?

It’s been two years since the designer once known for ethereal evening pivoted her business to daywear, but it’s still a bit unclear what exactly she stands for.

While the spring 2020 collection was about boho separates filtered through rose-colored, Seventies glasses, fall 2020 was about…well, too many things.

The collection seemed to reference the Eighties, with a pleated pants-palooza of yuppie checked cashmere tailoring and chunky gold jewelry, as well as cool-girl riffs on the leather dressing trend that had pleated trousers tucked into tall boots, worn with oversize bombers. The new denim was old denim — in a washed black, pleated baggy silhouette, worn with soft spun mohair sweaters. It was all OK, but lacked the kind of distinction that would make one sit up and say, “Oh, that’s Ferretti.”

Then out came enough ruffles, ruches, fringes and frills to party like it’s 1989. Candy-colored puff-sleeve blouses tucked into skirts ending just over the boots, and black chiffon gowns and aprons weighed down with metallic brocade or silver fringe embroideries occasionally veered down the path of matronly.

Even if the idea was to zigzag between two sides of the dressed-up Eighties canon, it was hard to follow. And in general, there needs to be a stronger through line to this brand story.

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