There is nothing like a fashion poem to lift the mood of a show; a cocktail of philosophy, whimsy and commerce waiting for guests, along with the show notes, on the hard benches of the front row. Izumi Ogino’s poem talked about crunching snow beneath the feet, a blustery breeze, freedom, happiness and a natural sense of being. What the designer delivered on flower-printed paper was exactly what she sent onto the runway, knit skirts and tops so roomy they could easily have fit a few people underneath; a long fuzzy pink poncho that could have fit even more, and lots of delicate origami pleats and balloon sleeves on robe coats and tops that resembled open fans.
Ogino is a talented designer who delivers season after season to a customer who walks a line between comfort and glamour. She’s made Anteprima into a go-to brand for everyday elegance. This season the clothes were particularly soft and easy, as if Ogino wanted to hug to every one of her clients. Her wide wale corduroy trousers were languid, her velvet coats — in olive or evergreen — were long and cocooning, and her knitwear plentiful. In addition to sweaters with sleeves that stretched well past the fingertips, there were wool jackets with knitted sleeves and scarves as big and fluffy as cumulus clouds encircling models’ necks. Poetry for the wardrobe.