Arthur Arbesser designs for cool girls — as demonstrated by his friends, homeware designer Maddalena Casadei and jewelry queen Joanne Burke, who both walked his fall 2020 show. “This collection feels a bit more feminine and mature than usual,” mused the designer backstage. “It’s less quirky and offbeat, a bit more self-assured and grown-up — happily womanly, in a way.”
If you cast aside the oversize floppy caps — the very definition of quirk — it was indeed a sleeker, more put-together collection from the Austrian designer, who set out to celebrate his 15 years living in Milan by looking at the city through the eyes of an awestruck tourist.
Black-and-white tiled floors in old buildings were transformed into fuzzy wool sweaters and sequined shirtdresses, while imposing marble entrances were referenced on flowing silk dresses and crisp white shirts. In a feat of material research, the marble effect on jewelry and belt buckles was achieved by combining Pietrasanta marble dust and cloud-like tufts of colored wool from the Prato region. The result, named “Marwoolus” and created by designer Marco Guazzini, was then photographed and reprinted on garments.
The chosen footwear was a little clunky — satin platform sandals in jewel tones — but the overall color palette of bronze, burgundy, chocolate and black made for a pleasing collection with a number of eye-catching details, such as black vinyl blouses and coats or a leather crossbody bag in collaboration with Valextra, the full range of which will be revealed at the accessories brand’s presentation on Feb. 22.