Brunello Cucinelli has carefully and clearly molded and sharpened its luxurious image season after season and the brand is further emphasizing its identity for fall.

“We went back to some minimalism, cleaning up in an important way,” said Carolina Cucinelli, daughter of the namesake founder. This doesn’t mean eschewing elaborate workmanship, as in the beautiful organza bomber with sequined trims or the embroidered, irregular crochet top with a three-dimensional foliage effect.

In Cucinelli’s world, minimalism meant lots of winter white, beige and graphic touches of black as well as an intriguing juxtaposition of men’s wear fabrics with feminine details. Examples included a tailored light charcoal blazer with bold shoulders tucked into a floor-length, pleated and fluid napa leather or tulle skirt.

Leather was more relevant than usual in this collection, which had a strong equestrian inspiration. High boots were worn with knee-length Bermudas and cozy ribbed sweaters fit for any English countryside walk. Cucinelli played with masculine and feminine elements pairing pinstriped pants or pied-de-poule vests with an allover splatter of sequins and laminated leather blouses.

Shirts were oversize and worn like a coat in the softest cashmere ever — after all, one wouldn’t expect any less from Cucinelli.

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