While Emilio Pucci was indubitably a fashion innovator, making comfy and practical clothes for travel and sports, he designed for an era long before neck tattoos, neon hair dye, sneakermania — and Instagram.
So yeah, Post Malone and Billie Eilish could suddenly be takers for the collection Christelle Kocher proposed for the Florentine house, largely faithful to its colorful, print-heavy legacy, but with big helpings — perhaps a scoop too much — of streetwise grit and grungy attitude.
The French designer behind the Koché brand is the first in a series of guest designers as Emilio Pucci pursues a business model adopted in recent years by larger brands such as Moncler and Tod’s. Kocher certainly cast the jet-set brand in a new light, parading slinky polo dresses, lace tracksuits and printed hoodies around a pyramid of scaffolding and fluorescent tubing to a blitzkrieg of electronic beats.
The men’s looks were a surprise, the silky shirts and boxer shorts straight outta “Miami Vice,” while both sexes wore the lace activewear spangled with crystals, neither very convincingly. The strongest looks in the show included slipdresses mingling the boudoir and the school yard, and sporty outerwear in bolt patchworks of graphic prints. Interspersed were some off-kilter jersey dresses and fine tailoring in searing colors.
To be sure, Kocher succeeded in knocking the preciousness out of Pucci, stuffing silk scarves haphazardly into the back pockets of jeans and splashing the heraldic family monogram on clothes, instead of a typical logo. No boring Helvetica for her.