Camel, burgundy and mahogany were the main tones of Gabriele Colangelo’s elegant fall collection, playing across garments that begged to be touched. A cocoon-like wool and cashmere knitted dress was comforting and subtly sexy, thanks to the glimpses of skin afforded by slits on the hip and collarbone. Models clutched oversize soft leather bags like pillows and gleaming gold buckles and oversize beads clinked around the waists of draped wool suits. Long fringes — a big trend in Milan, here laser-cut — swished from the collars of knitted sweaters and the shawl neck of a leather coat.

Colangelo experimented with visible white stitches on sleeves, around necklines and in corset-like details along waists, but the trailing white threads brought an air of unkemptness to the overall luxe feeling of the collection. More appealing and technically impressive were two midi skirts that were printed then laser-cut with tiny vertical slits: the slits stretched open and shut as the models walked, giving the skirts the appearance of mesh fabric and creating an effect of distortion, which was mesmerizing to watch.

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