Giuliano Calza traveled home to Naples for inspiration for his latest GCDS (God Can’t Destroy Streetwear) collection, a more sentimental affair than last season’s manga extravaganza with animatronic dinosaur as runway attraction.
He built a grand colonnade at the Stazione di Milano Centrale, complete with statues of three-breasted goddesses, referencing the similarly prosthetics-enhanced models in his spring 2019 show that made international headlines.
“I wanted do something beautiful — sparkly, a little bit cheeky and playful but at the same time sexy,” the 32-year-old designer said backstage of his vision to filter Naples’ distinct sense of “extra” through a nostalgic Eighties-Nineties Pop-Tart lens.
That led to a collection that was less street and more sweet, Justin-and-Britney, Chiara [Ferragni]-and-Fedez (sitting front row) romantic. For her: pastel satin blazers and bikini tops over ripped and faded baggy jeans; a cheeky cappuccino-colored degrade mohair cardigan and HotPants look; an acid green puff-sleeve polo tucked into cool corset-waist jeans with slouchy boots, and a baby blue Latex flouncy high-low gown over white laced boots. For him: a baby blue crystal covered turtleneck sweater and baggy jeans; pale pink overcoat over GCDS logo tracksuit; acid green velvet shirt unbuttoned over pleated black leather pants, and throwback crystal-dusted varsity jacket over jeans. (Get ready to get out your BeDazzler again!)
SSC Napoli, the local soccer team, made several sports jerseys for the collection. In another celebration of Italy, Calza used Warner Bros. artwork from the classic “Tom and Jerry: Neapolitan Mouse” episode on two jackets that are sure to be collectors items.
There was a lot to wear for the GCDS lifestyle lover. And if some of it seemed OTT frilly-frothy — even a tad tacky — that was the point. There is a “That’s Amore” vibe bubbling up this season, seen in Rodarte’s sugary sweethearts, and Moschino’s Marie Antoinettes, so Calza is onto something.
In its fifth year, the GCDS universe continues to expand; on the runway, he launched his first collection of eyewear with Marcolin, and invitations to his show came with a limited edition, numbered GCDS gold Moka maker. On Instagram, the designer captioned: “We know what number you received just in case you resell!” Now that’s cheeky.