Gabriele Colangelo this season did not look to a specific artist as he has in the past, but was rather inspired by “an emotion, that of the early morning in front of a stretch of water.” The designer said backstage that he liked “the idea of a lake, a river and the rarefied fog or light dawn,” which he transferred into a selection of grays, warm whites and creams, which yielded to light red, green and chocolate brown. He also cited “a dichotomy of architectural control, seen in the the jackets and coats, and that of spontaneity in the soft materials and fluid shapes.”
Colangelo did not veer from his staple layering of long, draped silhouettes that mold to the body. However, a strapless fuzzy alpaca top worn over crinkled georgette pants was new territory for the designer, as was a long dress with iridescent strips of fringed chiffon. Jewels with marble stones, irregular chains and pins provided touches of decoration.
WWD CRITIQUE: The designer added a new touch of sensual and romantic femininity to his well-honed minimal rigor.