“I’m talking about geometry,” Angela Missoni said backstage before her show. Her program notes elaborated, explaining that she drew from the mathematical discipline for “a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self-awareness, told in straight lines [and] bold clean volumes.”
A fine premise, for sure. Who isn’t all for women’s empowerment, while folding in a little subliminal STEM messaging along the way? But as a collection, it didn’t work. The patterns felt both busy and dull, the former the result of overzealous mixes and the latter, a base palette of earthy browns and beiges that needed more oomph, at least through the first half of the show, after which Missoni infused more color and metallic sparkle.
Apart from the geometry, Missoni’s strongest proposal was for abundantly proportioned coats. There were several good-looking options, including a cozy, multipatterned bathrobe version. Otherwise, her primary message seems to have been wardrobe range, as she offered everything from knit suitings to tunics over leggings. Riffs on classic sweater dressing included a maroon, navy and gray cardigan over matching pants that looked the essence of ease. The men’s lineup in this coed show also featured a variety of suits and pattern-intense sportswear mixes from which one could extract strong pieces. But overall, the collection lacked spark and clarity of message.