There was definitely a David Bowie inspiration running through the collection that Lorenzo Serafini showed on Saturday. That was a fitting reference for the designer, who during a backstage interview before the show said he wanted to exalt self-expression and individuality. However, while his intent of leaving behind homologation and promoting freedom felt highly noble, that didn’t translate in the collection, which here and there felt a bit chaotic.
There were covetable, desirable pieces, such as a slouchy tie-dye blazer, an oversize quilted jacket crafted from a lovely Liberty fabric and lined with shearling, as well as a black velvet dress punctuated by rhinestones and trimmed with organza ruffles. But it seems that sometimes, the designer, who is always confident in delivering a specific, focused fashion message, got lost in the multiple possibilities of eclecticism. A revised Western feel, echoing into blanket-like capes, fringed velvet dresses and quilted high-waisted pants tucked into shearling boots, clashed with the disco glam attitude of Seventies’ metallic pants, shiny oversize suits and glitter wedged booties. However, the fan of the brand, who loves Serafini’s signature lively and young femininity, will definitely find plenty of options in the collection to amp up their girly wardrobe.