From the coffee and very Italian breakfast treats — bite-size prosciutto sandwiches and pastries — to the laid-back glam looks on the runway, this collection was all about indulgence — and comfort. A Sunday morning show on the last day of any fashion week is never easy, but team Ports can certainly put on a show, morning, noon or night.
Karl Templer, who in September made his debut as artistic director of Ports 1961, with Baron & Baron working on the visuals and logo, looked to wardrobe classics — the pussy bow blouse and silk dress, swing and princess coats, the fisherman knit and houndstooth check — then knocked them sideways with off-kilter proportions and unexpected details.
He stretched and wrapped the fisherman knit, turning it into a body-con dress with a cream silk pussy bow fluttering from the neck; magnified black-and-white houndstooth and check for a grand sweep of a cape coat and dotted extra rows of shiny gold buttons onto other coats and capes. Smocked corsets, bat wing sleeves or off-the-shoulder draping freshened up rose-printed silk dresses, while supersize, statement silk bows sprouted from the necks of oversized knits and cocooning coats.
He looked at accessories — a big part of this collection — from a different angle, too, splicing gold sling backs with black boots for a “Belle de Jour” feel, and stringing little charms and chains on other boots. Jewelry had a vintage aura with cameos and faux stones, as did the dark frogging on coats and capes and the chunky buttons made from strands of antique-looking, twisted gold.
Something old, and a whole new look for this brand that turns 60 next year.