Nocturnal glamour has never looked so good. During a Saturday morning preview of Anna Sui’s fall collection, the designer described her lineup as “optimistic vampire,” but on Monday night, a more deliciously sinister offering emerged. Inspired by the exploitive and horror films of the Sixties and Seventies that she was introduced to at a Giallo film festival — including “Blood and Black Lace,” and her personal favorite, “Daughters of Darkness” — Sui whipped up moody, texturally rich alluring attire.
The designer focused on dresses and coats over separates (a reversal from spring’s separates-packed, innocent pastel array) and reworked them into ladylike, Victorian silhouettes in exciting new fabrics. A black patent vinyl number with lace sleeves proved a standout for day while eveningwear played up the drama with shimmering Lurex, sequins and sheer, Hammer Film-inspired negligee-like offerings.
Sui’s positive, bohemian spirit could still be seen throughout, via Liberty-printed or bright-bloom-covered roomy silhouettes, but the best looks embraced sultry layers of burnout velvet, faux and patent leather, lace and faux fur. As always, Sui’s family-like team added the perfect Gothic touches to her provocative show, including mile-high, chunky John Fluevog boots, intricate headwear and hats by James Coviello, darkly romantic makeup looks by Pat McGrath and the perfect vamp hair by Garren.
WWD Critique: Sui’s more sensual, darkly Gothic fall array made for one of her richest collections, and shows, of recent seasons.
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