What do leopards, fireworks and luxury cars have in common? To Christian Cowan, they represent different ideas of power, which he injected very thematically into his fall showcase. One of the natural kingdom’s top predators was translated into the looks that first took the runway, the highlights of which were his new, custom silk-Lurex-blend spotted offerings, like a boxy suit set. A group of firework-embellished ensembles (his version of florals) followed suit — an explosive, folded paillette gold top beneath gilded shaker made for the most interesting take on the celebratory elements, while printed offerings felt too on-the-nose. Lastly, Cowan’s take on “showing off power and wealth through sports cars” took the runway à la purple and silver custom Lurex jacquard dresses, car wheels and headlights graphically woven within; he also intertwined the idea via tiny, lime-green velvet additions with sports car sublimation prints and painstakingly hand-placed gold-leaf accents.
Embracing a “second skin” idea, barely there, skintight Nineties minidresses made up a vast majority of the collection within each “category,” and came crystal-mesh and rhinestone adorned, with cone-bra detailing in velvet, with signature, voluminous bow and sleeve details or in a more playful, Victorian baby-doll shape (one of his best). While Cowan’s most compelling looks are still those from prior seasons, his continued use of crystals was a thread excitingly pulled throughout, amped up for the season in the form of tights, opera gloves, jewelry, handbags, beret-like headpieces and face masks.
WWD Critique: Christian Cowan’s fall focus focused on three areas of power, which he illustrated through graphic garb.
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Christian Cowan RTW Spring 2020
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