Jane Siskin’s brand of cool and empowered femininity was on full display at Delmonico’s, the setting for her fall runway, and a fitting one: It was the first restaurant in the U.S. to allow women to dine without being in the company of a man.
And it set the scene of power lunches, where Siskin could evolve the brand’s suiting language and simultaneously challenge notions of what’s appropriate for such occasions. Foremost here was a statement on tailoring, with Siskin experimenting with denim, novelty sleeve treatments, cropped and enveloping constructions, oftentimes layering in frilly necklines, brooches and silky blouses to juxtapose the structure of blazers and coats.
Men’s wear, naturally, had an influence, through tweeds and checks, as well as on spunky looks inspired by Steven Meisel’s “Grunge and Glory” shoot from 1992 (which has been on the designer’s mood board since Day One). She offered a soft take on grunge when she styled a black suit with pastel pink and yellow, and through the pattern play of a floral printed skirt under a signature novelty blazer with scribbled quotes on top.
As expected, there were feminine dresses, cut with more attitude this season, as in a mini black and white number with puff sleeves and a strapless baby-blue tulle dress Siskin considers just as appropriate as a power suit for a luncheon. “What we’re evoking is a look that can be worn for any kind of occasion,” she said after the show. “We try to embody a total lifestyle.”