For his first collection as sole creative director, Thomas Cawson hosted a gallery reception featuring look book images taken by Sunil Gupta in the vein of his famous 1976 Christopher Street photographs. Cawson’s goal is to reinstate the brand’s cachet as a cultural brand for creative types by offering nostalgic silhouettes with sensuality and deviance. “It’s chic, but there’s a seediness to it that’s important,” Cawson noted. The only item on display, a suede and shearling coat, highlighted a retro moment, while images suggested how Cawson will amp up the sensuality factor with softly draped silks and feminine workwear.

WWD Critique: Updated classics are always in fashion, but time will tell if Cawson’s plan can help revitalize the brand’s former glory.

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