Gilles Mendel has built his business on eveningwear, using his signature pleating techniques and exquisite embellishments. For Mendel, the fabrics are where his story begins, and for fall he had several materials engineered, like a burnout velvet on organza, while others were crafted from intricate embroideries. Each felt unique and precious, amplified under his skilled hand with draping and construction, for a range of sensual gowns and cocktail frocks. He added new iterations of his classic hand-pleated-style gowns — like the one Idina Menzel wore to the Oscars — some had new geometric patterns on strapless bustiers attached to skirts that cascaded down the body. He also showed some outerwear ideas, like a few interesting puffer jackets with flower appliqué details.
WWD Critique: Mendel’s couture-like handiwork really shone through in his evening assortment for fall, especially his intricately crafted dresses made from engineered fabrics.