Jonathan Cohen staged his runway amid beautiful florals in an abandoned artist’s loft in Lower Manhattan, foreshadowing the balance of pretty and gritty inherent to his fall lineup.
Known for prints and textiles, he offered loyal fans a variation of roses in various stages of bloom, via artistic hand sketches, micro floral patterns and 3-D embellishments. “When I think about how I started sketching and designing, it was very gestural,” Cohen said. “We did these gestures of people dancing with roses blooming on them. Then we abstracted them.”
That notion of gesture and movement was evident in pieces that felt soft and relaxed, even while Cohen drew silhouettes closer to the body in a new direction for the brand. He twisted short dresses to the side with gathered fabric, at times with tonal looks to highlight construction details or with printed dresses adorned with upcycled pearls from Swarovski compiled into abstract rose patterns.
An air of uptown grunge coursed through the collection — as it has at several other shows over the past couple of days — seen here when a prim blazer with shoulder poufs was styled over a mini plaid dress or when a coat composed of felted scraps was grounded by Dr. Martens combat boots that were completely swathed in thousands of upcycled crystals.
Sustainable initiatives have also been a focus for Cohen, who recently launched “The Studio,” a direct-to-consumer model filled with regenerated products, including the big opening scarf and a cropped crochet cardigan. He introduced some new eco-friendly fabrics, like a repreve (made out of recycled bottles) and econyl, while utilizing organic cotton (with a denim look) and recycled cashmere, all of which still feel sophisticated and fun in Cohen’s hands.
He rounded out the show with a more cleaned-up trajectory with elevated tailoring; standouts included a gray suit with contrast red floral embroidery, a marigold evening set in hammered satin, and a paneled trenchcoat that balanced artistic inclinations with everyday appeal.
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