“Simple, easy, modern and clean” is how Jonathan Simkhai summed up his fall collection. That may sound like a no-brainer, but it’s not easy. And yet, it’s what American fashion has always done best, and Simkhai’s solid fall outing was exhibit A.
The Los Angeles-based contemporary designer focused on tailoring more than he has in the past. “Because that’s what women want to wear in the fall,” he said of the theme, which led to accessible riffs on wardrobe classics, including trenchcoats, pants suits and sweater dresses.
A tailored houndstooth jumpsuit and another black-and-beige color-blocked trench jumpsuit were smart new takes on the all-in-one trend. And an open-back detail added drama to a paprika-colored, draped, fringed dress.
How to marry tailoring and cozy comfort dressing? How about a camel blazer meets sherpa jacket? The designer was able to pull it off, giving a sharp-cut tailored blazer faux fur leopard sleeves without adding too much bulk, and pairing it with fluid camel trousers. An orange, black and beige wool sherpa-cum-bomber jacket over a draped black wool fringe blanket skirt was also cold-weather cool.
Not forgetting his signature pleating and lingerie details, Simkhai showed a black draped single-shoulder dress in vegan leather that was pretty enough to wear even if you don’t care. Meanwhile, a fawn-colored, ribbed-cashmere bustier dress over a turtleneck made one dream of haute Aspen après-ski. A loose, leopard, sequin, long-sleeve dress also looked elevated and expensive for the price. Simkhai’s universe continues to expand; for fall, he is launching his first shoe collection.