For her fall collection and look book, Daniella Kallmeyer referenced artist Cindy Sherman’s portrait series, exploring the gender binary and breaking down the typical ideas of femininity, both of which the designer also explores in her work.
Kallmeyer described the artist’s series as “moments that were beautiful, but you felt a little strange about it, a little bit uncomfortable, but also turned on and intrigued by it.” She emulated this feeling through mood and color (mustard yellow and greens, khaki and reds), rather than strangeness in the items themselves, adding, “the items are all about ease and elevation, feeling strong and powerful while also feeling comfortable.”
Suiting, as always, was prominent, as were delightful pleated offerings (like a navy shirt with knife-pleated collar and matching trousers with full pleats of alternating widths), among other sophisticated wardrobe staples. Unisex offerings were designed to work for however her customer associates on the gender and sexuality spectrums — sleek trousers could be cinched up high for a paper-bag high waist or worn low on the hips as a slim dropped pant; knitwear could be worn either oversize or tailored, depending on the wearer.
WWD Critique: Kallmeyer’s fall collection incorporated smart, aspirational wardrobing with fluidity and flexibility that could be adapted to her wearer’s personal style.
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