“Everyone knows I’m a minimalist, but I think it’s important to convey, too, that being modern doesn’t have to be bare and minimal,” Marina Moscone explained after her intimate and divine fall show, set once again at The Player’s Club in Gramercy Park. Known for tailoring, both sharp and loose, as well as twisted draping and bias slipdressing, Moscone wanted to convey modernist Seventies glamour, the “Anjelica Huston wearing Halston,” type in her designs. Elegant tuxedo dressing came in the form of double-faced, heavy wool suiting and sweeping smoking jackets with bijoux buttons; slinky, twisted slips and tunics also incorporated intertwined, diamanté details.
The designer evolved her signature solid tunic-over-pant looks into double-faced Scottish Donegal hand-knit sweaters atop dresses with pleated and lace-trimmed hems while familiar, fluid separates were paired with nubby alpaca sherpa topcoats with upcycled mink collars. This importance of tactility goes hand-in-hand with the prominence of artistry within Moscone’s collections. For fall, burnout-velvet stemmed roses and solid black velvet floating panels adorned slips (as well as a singular jade pantsuit) while long, hanging strands were hand-pulled through embroidered leopard patterned transparent organza voile gowns, all of which felt more refined than her prior, more crafty (but still polished) takes.
Even with the simplest of pieces, Moscone painted a picture of demure elegance; her attention to small details on her meticulously crafted designs proved a standout once again.