Last fall, Narciso Rodriguez created a coat shape with a shorter sleeve, just a simple tweak, he thought it wasn’t for everyone. It ended up being one of his most popular pieces. Fall 2020 sees him again remixing outwear; this time a trenchcoat with built-in cape. It did double duty as a dress or a piece of outerwear.
“If we are making a coat today,” he said at an intimate appointment in his showroom, “it should be a very special piece.” And special it was.
With Rodriguez, there is always a relationship on how his clothes relate to the body. Some examples, an A-line skirt with asymmetric hem made from different types of fabric panels, or a sharply cut maroon blazer over a caramel-colored shirtdress with a twisted knot at the waist. It’s the quiet pragmatism of carefully crafted pieces that his customer comes back to season after season.
Much of the offering felt timeless, like the mix of sportswear separates that could inject some soft tailoring into a wardrobe.
His color palette leaned on neutral tones, but with a few splashes of color. A mossy green long sleeve V-neck shirtdress, with darts down the front and a handkerchief hem skirt or a red-ish short-sleeve triangle-shaped cotton dress. Both had day to night appeal.
Fun fact — Rodriguez is obsessed with New York City’s flower district. He photographed an image of some mums, creating two prints, one dot-like from flower buds and another print of flowers opening, it created a pretty section of dresses.
Some core pieces, like his precision-cut sheath dresses with nipped waist details engineered with sharply cut panels, or leather harness with split seems have been redone in new fabrications.
“I don’t think anything should be basic anymore,” he said. “It should be beautifully made and the fabric should be incredible.” It’s a proposition he delivers on in spades.